GLOSSARY OT TERMS

Below you'll find a bunch of lingo and jargon related to the custom apparel business. Some you might find helpful, some you may not. 

SKIP AND GO SHOP

SCREEN PRINTING 

Table: Shirts are loaded onto a flat surface that moves around the press stopping at each color station for printing. The pallet we pull the shirt over is often referred to as a table.

Tack (Spray Tack): A light adhesive is sprayed on the press pallet to stabilize the t-shirt and keep it from lifting up in the printing process. This adhesive is often referred to as tack or spray tack. Although a residue may be left in the shirt, the tack is water soluble and comes out easily when washed.

Underbase (White Underbase): When printing on dark colored garments, a layer of white ink must be printed first, so the actual logo or design print colors are visible. The under base is also commonly referred to as underlay, white underlay, flash white, or simply base white.

Water-Based Ink: Water-based inks are defined as those that utilize water as the main solvent. That does not mean, however that water is the only solvent. It is significant to note that many water base inks contain “co-solvents” which may even be petroleum based solvents. The reason these co-solvents are used varies, but one of the key reasons is to decrease the time and heat necessary to cure the ink film on the fabric. Water-based has a different aesthetic than standard plastisol inks. Be sure to discuss limitations of water-based printing with a screen print artist or custom service representative.

Wet-On-Wet: Wet-on-wet is the screen print technique eliminating a flash cure on press. Wet-On-Wet printing technique is used for color blending of simulated process prints. For simpler design and spot color designs, the under base is flashed to cure inline on press. 

Art Requirements: Guidelines that specify what types of art can be used for decoration and how to format digital files for use for screen printing.

Butt-To-Butt Registration: When colors in a design line up exactly next to each other with no space in between and no overlap.

Color Separation: The process of breaking down a digital art file, image or photo into 14 or fewer colors that can be used to screen printing.

Digitizing: Process for converting digital images or logos into a map of stitches. The digitized file is uploaded to the embroidery machine to provide instructions for location of stitches and thread color.

Film Positive: Used to burn a stencil onto a screen for printing, the film positive is created by printing black ink on a clear plastic surface. Each design has one film positive per color.

Gradient: When screen printers talk about gradients, we are referring to a series of halftones created when a digital graphic transitions from a darker to lighter shade. These gradients can be layered to create printed blends when transitioning from one color to another.

Halftone: Halftones are dots or ellipses used to create lighter shades of a print color without changing the actual ink color to something lighter. Smaller dots spaced farther apart, create a lighter shade. Larger dots spaced closer create a darker shade. 

Line Count: Line count refers to the number of vertical lines of halftone spots per inch or lines per inch. Line counts are measured in lpi (lines per inch) and/or dpi (dots per inch). Most shops will use anywhere from 45 lpi to 85 lpi depending on the desired affect. Higher line counts can hold more detail, but tend to print with less saturation than lower line counts.

Loose Registration: When colors in a logo or design to not have to line up next to each other. Any of the colors can overlap or fall in the vicinity of a designated area without having to be exact.

Raster Art: Digital art composed of pixels (as opposed to paths) is a raster file. Raster files for screen print are best created in Adobe Photoshop at a minimum resolution of 150 dpi at print size.

Resolution: Resolution refers to the quality and clarity of raster art files. The higher the resolution, the cleaner and more clearly a print can be produced. Resolution is measured in dpi (dots per inch), ppi (pixels per inch), or lpi (lines per inch).

Up-Sampling: Up-sampling is taking a piece of low resolution digital art and merely re-assigning the dpi value to a higher resolution. This does not actually increase the size or quality of the image. Low resolution art files must be completely redrawn or created in an acceptable file type for use in screen printing.

Vector Art: Vector, in the screen print industry, refers to a type of digital file that is acceptable for use. The images are created using paths instead of pixels. Pixels are used in raster files. 

EMBROIDERY TERMS 

Backing: Stiff fabric applied to the inside of the garment to keep the embroidery stitches stable through embroidery, wear, and wash.

Cut-Away Backing: Cut away backing is used on softer materials that we embroider. This type of backing eliminates the tendency of a fabric to pull away from the embroidered logo when using tear away backing. 

Fabric Backing: Fabric backing is silky, super light and barely visible on even the most fragile materials.

Solvy Topping: Solvy is used to create a smooth foundation for embroidering custom designs. It is applied on the top or outside of the garment and is covered by the embroidered design. Solvy is primarily used on high pile fabrics (fleece, hoodies, towels) to help the stitches stay visible and avoid the embroidered design becoming lost in the fabric.

Tear Away Backing: Tear away is the most common type of backing used. It is the quickest and easiest to remove for the most common types of embroidered garments ordered by our customer. Tear away backing is used on the sturdy, strong fabrics such as caps, dress shirts, back packs etc.

DIRECT TO GARMENT 

Direct to Film: A modern printing method where designs are printed onto a special film and then transferred to fabric using heat and adhesive powder. DTF printing provides high-quality, durable prints with vibrant colors and is effective on a wide variety of materials, including cotton, polyester, blends, and even darker fabrics. Known for its flexibility and sharp detail, DTF is becoming popular for custom apparel, especially when producing small runs or complex, multi-color designs.

OTHER CUSTOM APPAREL TERMS 

Athletic Wear
A piece of clothing that is designed to be worn when performing athletic activities like physical exercise, sports, and games.
 
Anti-Shrinkage
A fabric treatment that makes the material less prone to shrinking after washing.
 
Blend
A fabric or yarn that is made with more than one type of fiber.
 
Breathability
An attribute of a fabric or garment that allows for movement of air through the fibers to keep the wearer comfortable.
 
Breathable Fabric
A type of fabric that allows air and moisture to pass through its fibers.
 
Button-Down Collar
A type of collar where the wings can be buttoned together in front of the shirt.
 
Carhartt Force® (Carhartt)
Carhartt's patented technology that feature apparel with fast-drying properties to wick away sweat and keep the wearer cool and comfortable even in warm settings.
 
Casual Microfiber
A fabric created by weaving polyester thread tightly and is characterized with a smooth, suede feel. It is also referred to as 100% microfiber.
 
Collar
The neckband part of a shirt, blouse, or dress that can be fastened together.
 
Collar Stand
The band-like portion of a shirt, blouse, or dress that holds up the collar.
 
Colorfast
The ability of a fabric to retain its original color and resist bleeding or fading even when exposed to elements such as water, moisture, or sunlight.
 
Combed Ring Spun Cotton
A type of cotton fabric that has been processed to remove uneven fibers which results in finer, more even yarn giving a garment a smooth, softer, and better durability.
 
Dri-FIT (Nike)
Dri-FIT is a proprietary technology developed by apparel brand Nike which features moisture-wicking properties, breathability, versatility, and comfort. Some Dri-FIT garments are also made with UV protection.
 
Dri-Mesh® Polyester
A variant of polyester fabric typically used in manufacturing athletic and performance apparel due to its moisture-wicking properties and breathability.
 
Duck Cloth
A type of fabric that's plain and tightly woven to make it sturdy and water-resistant.
 
Durable Water Repellent (DWR)
A special treatment applied to fabrics to repel water and moisture. A DWR-treated garment resists water absorption and, in some cases, stains.
 
Dye Sublimation
A method of printing that uses heat to transfer dye onto materials like polyester, which are commonly used for athletic wear.
 
Embroidery
A decoration method where colored threads are sewn into a garment or fabric to create a design such as company logos, shapes, or texts.
 
Eco-Friendly
An eco-friendly material or merchandise may refer to products that are designed to help minimize environmental impact, and whose end-to-end production is certified safe to the health of consumers and laborers who manufacture them.
 
FastDry® (Carhartt)
A proprietary technology developed by apparel brand Carhartt which features quick-drying properties so that sweat, moisture, and water would easily evaporate. This helps keep the wearer dry and comfortable.
 
Firm Duck (Carhartt)
A type of cotton fabric used by apparel brand Carhartt, firm duck is the most durable canvas and the brand's strongest cotton duck. It is water-resistant, wind-resistant, and ideal for rugged clothing.
 
Fit
Refers to how the clothes fit the body when worn.
 
Flame-Resistant (FR)
A type of fabric that is designed to resist ignition and combustion even when exposed to high temperatures or open flame. Flame-resistant fabrics are often used in manufacturing safety apparel and gear. It is important to note, however, that flame-resistant fabrics do not necessarily mean they are fire-proof.
 
Heather CVC (Bella+Canvas)
Chief Value Cotton (CVC) is a type of fabric that is made of heathered cotton and polyester and is used by apparel brand Bella+Canvas in creating comfortable garments such as T-shirts and sweaters. The heathered pattern refers to the fabric's appearance of the fabric which is characterized by a speckled look or with flecks of varying colors.
 
Hoodie
The shortform term for ‘hooded sweatshirt'. The hood part is attached to the neckline of a sweatshirt and is pulled up to the head to serve as a covering.
 
Hook and Loop
A fastening mechanism used in various types of clothing to help secure the garment on the wearer and provide a comfortable fit. The hooks are made with stiff, tiny plastic protrusions while the loops are made with flexible fibers that are meant to engage with the hook to fasten completely. It is also more commonly known as Velcro.
 
Joggers
Jogger pants are trousers designed for athletic activities and exercising but may also be worn for comfort or lounging.
 
Mesh
A type of fabric characterized by open spaces between the yarns that make up the textile. It has a net-like structure of appearance and is often used in sportswear pieces due to its breathability and moisture-wicking properties.
 
Microfleece
A type of fabric known for its softness, lightweight properties, and warmth and is often used in creating comfortable clothing like pajamas, loungewear, and sweatshirts. It also helps in retaining warmth and keeping the wearer cozy, and it has moisture-wicking properties that makes it pull moisture easily.
 
Moisture-Wicking
A garment made with moisture-wicking properties has the ability to draw perspiration away from the skin so that it evaporates quickly.
 
Polyester
A type of synthetic fiber widely used in manufacturing different types of clothing and textile products. It is popular for its durability, wrinkle resistance, and moisture-wicking properties.
 
Pre-Shrunk
Fabrics that have undergone pre-shrinking treatment to minimize further shrinking when it's washed.
 
Quick-Dry
A type of fabric that is made to dry fast when exposed to perspiration or after swimming. Quick-dry fabrics are often used when creating apparel meant for exercising, swimming, and other physically intensive activities.
 
Raglan Sleeves
A style of sleeves where the sleeve extends from the collar to the underarm and is often seen in casual garments like T-shirts and sweatshirts. It also provides visual contrast as the sleeves are typically of a different color from the rest of the shirt.
 
Rain Defender® (Carhartt)
A technology used by apparel brand Carhartt for enhancing water-repellent features of their garments while adding durability to their rugged workwear and outerwear.
 
Rapid Dry™ Technology
A type of fabric treatment designed to wick sweat from the body and accelerate the evaporation of moisture to keep the wearer dry and comfortable.
 
Screenprinting
A printing technique where mesh screen is used to transfer ink onto the fabric.
 
Sublimation
A printing technique used to create vibrant and colorful prints on garments like polyester. Sublimation uses heat and pressure to transfer the design onto the fabric and works best on light-colored textile.
 
Super Heavyweight Fleece
A type of fleece fabric that is thick and heavy and is used to create insulated clothing and dense outerwear garments.
 
T-shirt
A short-sleeved or long-sleeved casual top that can be worn on its own or layered underneath a dress shirt. It is often made of cotton and is ideal for everyday wear.
 
Tie-Dye
A dyeing method which involves the use of two or more colors to dye a garment or fabric and binding the cloth to create distinctive patterns.
 
Tri-blend
A type of fabric that is made up of three different fibers. A common example of a tri-blend fabric is the combination of cotton, polyester, and rayon.
 
Uniform
A specific set of clothes worn by members of the same organization or team. A uniform helps a team set apart from other groups at an event and be easily identified with their company.
 
V-Neck
A neckline in the shape of the letter "V", where the edge of the neck forms slanting sides downward to the chest giving it depth.
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